Tanzer 16 Raising the Mast Single-handed - part 3 hinge, ladder

Tanzer 16 Raising the Mast Single-handed  - part 3 hinge,  ladder  --  May 12, 2014  -- In part two we had the mast up, but the butt of the mast had damaged the bulkhead.

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If you are 6'3" and strong as an ox, you can probably skip these next few posts.  This is how I did it; it worked for me.  It's up to you to determine if you have the skills, knowledge, and strength to do this safely. 

So clearly there needs to be a third iteration.  This system won't work until we devise a mast step hinge in a boat that wasn't designed for a centerline hinge--the centerboard trunk is in the way.  The answer is a portable, removable hinge that sits just to starboard of the keel.  After the mast has been stepped, you can put the hinge in the truck until you are ready to lower the mast.  After a full six-hour morning of dinking around, this is what the hinge looks like. *

The base is made from 3/4 plywood from the scrap box.  To  get this shape start by cutting a triangle of cardboard that will lay flat on the starboard side of the keel on the boat floor. Then spile to get the outboard shape.  Once you have that pattern you can spile (scribe) it back to get the bigger shape.  I tried to find an explanation on the internet for you, but they all over-complicate a simple procedure--try to find someone who can demonstrate spiling for you. The port side of the base needs to be beveled to match the angle between the keelson and the floor--use a carpenter's bevel gauge. The end view of the hinge base looks like this.

Exaggerated of course, but you get the idea.  Use a table saw to cut the left/port/inside bevel.  Use a band saw or jig saw to cut the bevel that touches the inside of the hull.  Use a tool like this bevel gauge to determine the angles you need. 

Since I have a lot of time on my right hand these days (I broke my left arm--different project), I made up a simple spiling explanation as a separate page. 

The tube part of the hinge needs to be cut so that the walls end up vertical  when the mast is in the upright position.  Use the same angles to cut the pivot arms.  You can use your bevel gauge to get the angle for the first cuts on the tube (4" ASB pipe).  Then you will have to fuss around trimming up the bottom so it rotates freely.  I used a 1/4-inch rod to make the pivot axle.  A circle of 3/4-inch plywood made a platform for the mast butt to sit on.  When the hinge is complete, set it inside the boat.  The next step is to insert the mast.  A tall ladder helps--the taller the better.

This is how the mast looks inserted into the hinge.  The weight of the mast and pressure from the trailer winch force the mast down into the hinge and keep it there.

Now go ahead and attach the guys and temporary back stay to the mast--loose loop--you have to retrieve them when the mast is up.  Keep the shrouds and topping lift lashed to the mast to keep them out of the way.  Secure the side guys.  You won't need to secure the temporary backstay until the mast is upright. 

The taller the ladder, the better.  It gives you a head start on raising the mast and forces the hinge into position.  Later I replaced this heavy Little Giant ladder with a much lighter 8' aluminum step ladder.

Now you can start raising the mast with the trailer winch while adjusting the guys to keep the mast centered.

With the mast all the way up, take a deep, well-earned breath.  Now you need to pick the mast up and drop it on the keelson.  But first you will want to invent a handle.

Next:  Part 4, Let's get the mast stepped--make a handle, and bag the restraining lines--they don't work  very well.

*If had lots of money and more metal working skills, I'd put a metal tabernacle in the boat,cut down the mast, and add a hinge plate on the mast base--then I would add a pair of cleats that lined up with the hinge.  Then one not-so-strong person could step the mast in 10 easy minutes.

Today's cliche:  Compared to understanding, knowing is rather trivial.