Tanzer 16, Change of Watch

Tanzer 16, Change of Watch, #426 --April 30, 2016  -- Scott Sullivan of Seattle purchased Overnighter #423 through Craig's List and moved the boat from Cashmere, Washington to Seattle. A number of Overnighters are located in King County/greater Seattle area.

This picture was part of the Craig's List posting.

There is a Facebook group:  Tanzer 16 Owners.

Tanzer 16 -- boat available in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

Tanzer 16 -- boat available in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico  -- April 24, 2016  Wife, Pat, was engaging in her twice yearly talk about moving to Mexico.  So, just for fun, I started looking for boats.  Found this Tanzer on on Craig's list.

16' Tanzer - $1250 (Guay—Puerto Vallarta, Mexico)

The boat comes with trailer, 6 hp Suzuki, sails and very good winter weather.  Spent a few days in PV last November and saw they have an active teaching/racing program for Lasers and other small boats up north in La Cruz.  This could save a few thousand miles of trailering.  I asked Vern, the owner, how the boat came to be in Mexico.  I will let you know if he responds.  jim

Tanzer 16 Mast Raising -- another approach

Tanzer 16 Mast Raising -- another approach -- April 23, 2016  Received an email and picture from Karl Price, 1305 in Port Orchard, Washington, US. He has come up with a simple aid to raise the mast.  You still need a little muscle, but the mast is always under control (you don't risk poking a hole in the forward tank), and it is a lot less work to create than my hinged approach.

 Here is his email and a picture.  

As to the mast raising,... It’s a straight walk the mast up kinda thing but what I found was there was nowhere to start. The foot of the mast was flailing under the foredeck and I had no way to anchor it while I walked the mast upright. My solution was to add a piece of ash from the keelson to the stinger that runs under the foredeck. It’s as think as the keelson is wide and has a curve cut into it that somewhat flows down to the keelson. Now I have something to brace the foot of the mast against as I walk it up. The higher I get the mast, the foot begins to slide down the curve and plops right onto the keelson. This is done with the shroud’s in place and the jib sheet running forward for fore and aft support until I get the forestay attached.

The attached photo shows the uncurved prototype piece I used to test the theory and I can say that it works pretty well.

When we get a picture of Karl's final installation,
I will add a page just for this method.

Tanzer 16 Painting nearing end -- Centerboard trunk secure

Tanzer 16 Painting nearing end  -- Centerboard trunk secure  -- April 20, 2016  The boat is going back together, and I am relieved.  Ever since we took the centerboard thwart and centerboard cap off the fragile centerboard trunk has been exposed.  It is quite tough when everything is together, but alone, it isn't much.

The trunk looks and feels fragile sitting there all by itself.

We have been very careful crawling around the cockpit.  Brian Mrachek told me that he reinforced his trunk with more glass while he was painting his boat.  It looks like a previous owner--probably Ron, installed some aluminum reinforcement bars under the glass flange that holds the cap--good idea, Ron.

Things feel much better now with the cap back in and the thwart attached.  It looks and feels sturdy.

Yes, I know there is a lot of stuff attached to the trunk cap.  All of it is
helpful for racing or single handing.

While we were at it, the mast step was changed back to a cleaner install.  We got rid of the big oak box that seemed unnecessary.

This option was discussed in the gin pole mast raising page.  I had said I
would do it this way if I had it to do over--as it turned out, I did.

Next up--repaint the transom, install the rest of the hardware, install the rubrail, install the graphics. Go sailing and practice with the new spinnaker chute and the roller furling Genoa.

Tanzer 16 -- Painting Continues -- but the end is in sight

Tanzer 16 -- Painting Continues -- but the end is in sight -- If you have a very powerful telescope...  -- April 7, 2016.  At this point the deck has two coats of primer, two coats of Interlux Brightside and one coat of Interdeck (non-skid) also white.   The cockpit has two coats of primer and two coats of Interlux Brightside.  I did decide to spray for two reasons.

• Mixing the two thinners brushing and spraying 50/50 made the paint much more forgiving to spray, and
• It didn't matter as much on the deck as the hull.  The nonskid paint has to be rolled on anyway so if there was a little orange peel (there was none when the second coat went on) it would be obscured by the non-skid in the Interdeck, and
• A little bit of orange peel would be hidden by the non-skid molded into the deck.
• Two coats of Interdeck squall blue on the floor and centerboard trunk were brush applied.
• There is still a little touch up--can you believe the tape came loose on the hull masking plastic.  And there is an almost invisible sag on the hull.  These will be repaired when the boat is back on the trailer.

The owie above he overspray happened while the boat was turning.  It will
get fixed when the rub rail is on.

When the boat back on the trailer we will install the rubrail.  I am kind of thinking that will require two guys and 4 - 5 hours.  Then, when we are done handling sharp aluminum near the paint work, the touch-ups will get completed.

What I have learned so far in this project:

• You could not possibly have enough rags.  Start saving old T-shirts a year before you begin painting--or visit the thrift shop.
• This project will take way more money and time than you could possibly envision--plan on most of the winter.  (My project was definitely slowed down because I added the spinnaker launching chute.)
• You can spray Brightside, but you will need to be almost an expert with a spray gun.  Probably better to roll and tip the hull for sure.  It helps if you change the thinner mix--but that is not what the Interlux folks recommend.  My opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it.  As is my liability.
• Do not even think about sanding the molded in non-skid.  It will disappear almost magically.  You can rough it up with bronze wool before you paint primer.
• You will need a plan/method to lift and flip the boat.  It weighs 400+ pounds and it is an awkward shape, and it doesn't have handles.  Your wife is right--this is nothing you want to do with four drunk buddies during half time. (No matter how much pizza you are willing to buy.)
• Sandpaper is way cheaper than time.  Buy plenty.
• You need a warm dry place to do this project.  I moved my Miata out into the cold for the duration.  Luckily my garage is kind of heated.  It never drops below 50 and is usually higher.
• Since the boat now is covered in paint instead of gelcoat, it's easy to repair the paint.

Too difficult to mask at the bottom of the seat so I just cut that in with a good brush.  Not perfect but really close.  Probably better than if I had masked.  Masking tape is not fond of compound curves. The more I look at it the less happy I am.  This is a pretty nice paint job and the line is not perfect. The trim carpenter in me wants to install something to cover the transition, but maybe this is one of those times you just need to quit messing with it and move on.

Had to leave a little escape room.  I did finish it off the next day.

Tanzer 16 -- New Boat--at least new to Brian

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